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Peak Mountain 3

Sleazy Corner

FA Maxwell Buchanan, Jan 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts on the slab directly behind a tree on the trail passing by the South Side wall. There is usually water running down the climbers right side of this route and it would definitely make the route easier if this were dry. The crux of the route is the first few slab moves up to a ledge, especially on lead since there is no pro until you get to the ledge. There is a nice finger jam and some small pockets for feet. If you want an easier start, you can stem and chimney off the tree right next to the start of the route to get to the ledge. Once on the ledge, the route goes up a 4th/low 5th corner to another small ledge. From here either mantle over the two overhanging boulders on top of the route or go left and ascend an easy ramp to the top. There are two solid trees at the top which I used as an anchor, but if you want to TR, I recommend extending the anchor over the overhanging boulders to reduce rope drag.

Location

Starting at the main mama wall, go east along the trail at the base of the rock wall until you find a tree in the middle of the trail with a large ramping corner above to the top of the face. This route is directly to the right of It Gets Easier. 

Protection

I used a nut and metolius mastercam numbers 5 and 6