- Edit (TBD)
Description
This line is EPIC. I have to give it my vote for the best bolted line on the North Coast. Before establishing this line, my vote went to Great White, well, this route climbs Great White, but then continues all the way to the top of the wall and finishes on the highest point of the Main Wall.
Begin this line with either Great White or Great White Direct. Great White is a hair easier, but requires more slings. Regardless of which start you choose, you'll have a good rest above the anchor. The route then continues through eight more bolts of insanely steep climbing, passing through two roofs. You'll find the crux at the second roof with a wild unwinding dyno. From there on, it's one more burly sequence then excellent laybacking. At the very end make a big throw left (away from the anchor) to a jug, then find a wonderful clipping jug at the highest point of stone on the Main Wall. Leaving a cheater sling on the anchor will only bring shame upon your family.
While rehearsing the dyno, you can haul up on a draw and pre-clip so you can start hucking it on-semi top rope. The true lead fall is wildly exciting. The key is a nice soft catch and some extra slack. With enough strategically placed slings, there is absolutely zero rope drag. So get some projecting buddies and pool your slings together.
Location
Start up Great White or Great White Direct. Clip the anchor, then step left into the rest of the overhang.
Protection
19 bolts. Lots of slings! If you start with Great White Direct, could pull it off with as few as 5 slings, but the more the better!
I went overboard on extending clips and had absolutely zero rope drag. I used 10 slings, 2 double length slings (on the third and 5th bolts of GW), two 1/2 length slings, then draws for the rest.
Routes in Main Wall
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