Bat Cave Traverse (Right to Left)

Keep in mind, this route is slightly contrived, in hold selection. The V10 version FA'd by Ed, stuck to the least positive crimps and edges for the duration of the route, especially the roof, before the head wall. There is a semi-natural crimp line that directs you through these crimps. On the other hand, there is always a way to make the problem easier, by using larger holds. If you step off the route and think it is a V7, 8 or 9, you definitely didn't do the route in its original iteration. Also, I hesitated to change the grade to a YDS grade, which would be more appropriate. Ed called it V10, in the September 1996 issue of Rock and Ice, so I left the grade as is. When I did this route in the 90s, the only holds that were chalked, were the crimps that he had used. Now, just as most areas see an increase in traffic, so do the number of holds that are chalked and getting "off route" is likely, based on when I returned to climb it again a few years ago.

Start matched on a sloping flake on the far right side of the Bat Cave, close to the tree. Continue all the way left making your way onto the 100 degree overhanging wall, and top out almost as far left as you can go.

The original version has a very particular start and eliminates most of the larger holds in favor of following the line through thin hold sections versus the larger seam system.

Start matched on a sloping flake on the far right side of the Bat Cave, close to the tree.

Pads.