- Edit (TBD)
Description
Dudeist Priest - 5.10a *** (195') F(20b)
Climbs the blunt arete at the far right (north) end of the Red-tail Wall (just right of the large corner that arcs left at the top). Can be done as one long or two pitches;
P1 - 5.10a *** 80' F(8b) - begin at the lowest point of the toe of the small lower buttress and climb progressively harder moves (consistently great unique patin-like edges from crimpers to jugs!) to the chain anchors above the large ledge.
P2 - 5.9 *** 115' F(11b) - from the belay ledge step right to mount the easy face above to the prominent inside corner. Climb the face just right of the corner until forced into the corner. Progressively harder moves lead to the thrilling finish and the chain anchors in the alcove above the ledge on top.
Note; it is NOT possible to safely rap the route with a single 60m rope. If you want to lower after leading the 2nd pitch, a 70m rope is needed. Best to belay on the good ledge at the top and rap the fall line to meet up with the anchors at the top of El Duderino.
Location
At the far right (north) end of the Red-tail Wall climb the buttress just to the right of "Batty".
Protection
fixed - 8 bolts to chain anchors at mid ledge, another 11 to chain anchors on top (a medium cam - #1 or 2 - placements is possible in the 5.4 slightly runout section above the mid belay but not essential). 20 draws to lead as one pitch.