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Peak Mountain 3

Fenton-Oslund Route

FA Renn Fenton and Peter Oslund circa 1965
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great trad climb with just enough of a spook factor to give it a hint of headiness and an impending sense of danger. Much more than Goldline.

Starts in the boulder field. Work your way up a crack system and move to the right into a larger crack system. The crux is escaping the pod you encounter about halfway up. The protection is good here, use some larger nuts and/or some smaller cams.

Once you have escaped the pod you'll find yourself at a face with some crumbly, yellow rock. Move left and around the corner to gain access to a ramp enclosed in a chimney feature.

Place a larger cam in the crack in the ramp of the chimney if you feel the need and work your way to the anchors. Summit register is a short hike to a larger summit above the rap anchor.

Enjoy the airy repel! This is a very doable climb for competant leaders who are good at judging safe gear placements and have a good lead head capable of convincing the body to just keep moving up.

Location

Down the hill from Goldline and Sore Thumb.

Protection

Standard Rack. Bring bigger nuts and a few tricams. Use long slings to give yourself plenty of extension to avoid rope drag.


Routes in Exclamation Point


  1. 2
    Fenton-Oslund Route
    5.8+
    Trad