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Peak Mountain 3

Open Project

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Description

There is a set of top anchors right of the open project with 3 high permadraws. There are no bolts on this route. To access the top anchors, hike to the big ledge above the climbs (coming in from the west above the REMF wall is best). Look for two Fixe ring anchors on the overhanging wall on the big ledge. Rap with a 70m rope down and a little climber's right to a pair of bolts 20 feet down. Clip in, add some anchor gear, and reset your rope through this anchor to reach the ground. There is a hole for an RB to keep you from swinging off under the steep stuff below the anchors.

The climbing is thin, somewhat sustained, and technical off the ground (11- or so), then seems to inevitably go through some choss, and then good rock to the ledge under the roof. That roof is probably the crux, but it will definitely go. The roof may need some more cleaning.

Location

It is on the far right side of the MACV Wall.

Protection

A TR at the moment.