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Peak Mountain 3

Chaitanya

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Description

Fun route with varied moves, it follows a continuous crack line between the wall and the ramp.  Mostly 5.7 climbing with a few 5.8 moves. The basic route ends at Piton Ledge, left of the tree & huckleberry, with bolted anchors over a free-hanging rappel/lower.  You may wish to bring your follower up behind you.Sathe Extension 5.9+   You can skip the anchors at Piton Ledge and continue up the overhanging wide handcrack to another set of anchors.  Save a #3 for this finish.  This is an excellent section of crack for the Butte.This route's anchors were bolted on lead, from the ground.Chaitanya Sathe was a local climber and mountaineer who died while scrambling into the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock in the summer of 2019. This route is dedicated to his memory. He touched the lives of so many in his 35 years, may he live on through those who climb this route.  More about him can be read here, in his Mazamas Obituary:

mazamaobits.blogspot.com/20…

Location

This route is a ramp trending up and left, found on the left side of the Wall of Shadows, just past the boulders separating the area from Breakfast Cracks.  It is best accessed from Skidmore & 90th, a 2 minute approach from the street, parking on the shoulder.This is a ground-up route, there is no top-rope access.

Protection

60m, cams from .3 to 3 and medium nuts, alpine draws to extend placements, bolted anchors with chains. --First Placement Spoiler: there is one spot to place a .5 cam down low, before moving up into the v-notch, see photos, be safe--