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Peak Mountain 3

I wanna be sedated

FA Eddie Begoon, Tony Barnes
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Since no one has entered this route yet I figured I would. Anyway, this is one of the best single pitch routes around and should not be missed. Those positive crimps are truly amazing! Most of the climbing is probably in the hard 10, easy 11 range, with a definite crux at the end.

Climb up onto the hollow flake to gain a slab with 2 bolts. Climb the slab on small but positive edges to a small ledge and gear. Continue up past a bolt to another gear placement at another stance. From here it's all bolts to the anchor. The crux is at the last bolt and is best done slightly left. The slab finish isn't hard, just spicy if you aren't expecting it.

Location

Starts 2 routes left of caught up in the air at a flake.

Protection

A few hand sized cams


2000 km
1000 mi