- Edit (TBD)
Description
Very well bolted climb and would be safe for emerging leader. Route rating is based on hardest single move.
P 1 - 100 foot 5.8
P 2 - 100 foot 5.9
P 3 - 90 foot 5.10
P 4 - 60 feet (or so) 5.10
P 5 - 100 foot 5.10
There is a variation for the P4 which moves left and crosses over Crap Duster via old pins and then climbs a steep arete to the summit. 5.9+ or 5.10
Location
Start in the gulley to the right of Crap Duster (the wide crack where the falcons nest) and to the left of Scrotum. If rappelling from the summit, anchors take you right down the dike. From the base of the cliff, the white dike is the most obvious natural line on the face to the left of the South Buttress.
Protection
All you need is 14 draws and a 60 meter rope. 5 rappels off chains at each station will get you to the base. Bring a few long draws to prevent rope drag on 1st pitch.
Routes in Main Wall
- 1Sunset Streaks5.10aSport