Classic Jam Crack

The Classic Jam Crack is located just north (climber's left) of Lucky Boy, Baba Louie, and Quickdraw McGraw on the Dihedral Wall. A very regular crack varying from solid hands to finger stacks and ringlocks. One of the best jamming routes in the Albuquerque area. Bernard Moret, in his guide, rates this as "mostly 5.8 with a harder start". I disagree. The start, while overcoming a bulge and jamming on just-over-vertical rock, is one of the most straight forward sections with beautiful hands. Above the bulge one enters a concavity and must overcome another bulge with the crack being more in the ringlock arena. I rate it a solid 5.9 route.

Palomas Peak on the north end of The Dihedral Wall.

Pro in the two inch to one inch array. I used the following: 2@ #2 camalots 2@ #1 camalots 2@ #.75 camalots 2@ #.5 camalots

(I totally overprotected the route getting a handle on jamming again. This route protects very well.)