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Peak Mountain 3

Full Nelson

5.12+
trad
FA equipped by Jesse Zacher, FFA Chris Righter and Matt Lisenby
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: climb cracks to step across onto flakes/pillar. Face climb past two bolts then into hand cracks to the belay, 100', 5.11-.

P2: ascend on perfect stone, climb flakes, crimps, and laybacks with tenuous footholds past 1 fixed nut and 2 bolts, then finish with 80' of moderate hand cracks to the summit, 5.12+.

Location

This is on the leftmost (eastern) buttress on the Massey Wall complex. Start between

Waking Life

(5.11) and

Zacher-Lisenby Especial

(5.10+). From the top of the Divide Road switchbacks, locate a small pillar/summit. Get on top of this, and find the rappel bolts (skier's right of the two pair of bolts on top of the formation, the other set is for

Waking Life

).

Two 100'(30 meter) rappels will reach the base.

Protection

A single rack to a #3 Camalot, draws, and nuts. Unless you are 6' tall, expect to struggle clipping the bolts. Pre-hanging/extending draws on rappel is advised.

Routes in Massey Wall