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Peak Mountain 3

Kodak Moment

FA Nick Johnson-Tatum. Jesse Lehman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1. (5.10) A high first bolt (stickclip perhaps) is reached via an easy flake-like feature.  Above this an easy mantel, making sure not to miss the chain that needs clipping on the left, and maybe a crux move or two before heading up to the chains.  Loose and dirty. 8 bolts.  70'

Pitch 2. (5.11-) Lean right from the chains and use the jug to move rightward, then upward to the first bolt.  Move back left over the belay, and then basically straight up through thin sharp holds, and several different types and quality of rock to reach a nice little ledge below the roof.  11 bolts. 115'.

Pitch 3.  (5.10) Tiptoe right from the anchor.  Clip 2 bolts to establish under the roof, and the 3rd above your head (long draw).  Lean out and left to either a side pull or lower crimp, then bumping your hands and feet through a series of adequate holds to get through some balance oriented moves.  Above is a real treat: smooth, sand-colored stone with a short crack that leads to another bulge. Trust the big block and navigate from right-to-left.  Another couple of bolts gets you to a ledge.  Scramble right and belay on the Fang.

3 raps with a 70m rope.  

P1 is pretty dirty, and a better start would be Long Term. The excellent 2nd pitch of Memory Lane can also be linked into by traversing over mid P2. 

Location

First route right of Memory Lane, just around the corner from Sonar Wall.

Protection

12 draws, maybe some long draws for the 3rd pitch. Helmet for the belayer.


Routes in Memory Lane