The Mantra

The Icon is easily located if you hike down the west approach trail to Dream Canyon. It looms on your left, about 50' above the creek and is a narrow slab with a steep gully on the right and a line of bolts along the right arete.

Easy climbing (5.6 or so) leads to a high first bolt just above the first crux. Only those with long arms or taller than 5'6" be able to reach this first bolt! (Trust me I'm 5'6".) Do hard moves over the lip with a bad left undercling, then follow the bolts through easier climbing over to the arete. The moves at the fifth bolt are the other crux. This is superb climbing - lots of no hands rest and good footwork required. Lower off about 80 feet.

A scramble up the gully on the left would reach the anchors for toproping. There are two bolts with rings. The arete is hard to toprope due to swing potential. Bring eight quickdraws.

Per

Carl Schaefer

: bring 9 protection quickdraws and something for the anchors if you plan to clip the first bolt of

Cruxifriction

.