- Edit (TBD)
Description
Aesop’s Arete starts with a shallow right facing corner/flake. The climbing continues up through large holds in chunky dark varnished rock and onto the face (crux) and the arete to the right. It eventually joins the last 25 feet of Van Allen Belt to the communal anchor on the ledge. The crux consists of balancy moves on small edges until reaching the larger holds of the upper arete. There is a key pocket slightly left when pulling onto the face where you will want a gold totem or equivalent size cam (.4 bd) with a low profile head. A .4 C4 will not fit. You will make a move or two above the .4 until reaching a larger pocket near the arete that takes a nice #3 C4.
This is a quality line on nice varnish that is a little bold through the crux and goes on all gear. Not sure if there has been a previous ascent, so if anyone knows please speak up.
Location
About 25 feet left of Magellanic Cloud and around the corner.
Protection
gear to 3” and nuts
Routes in Sunnyside Crags
- 11Aesop’s Arete5.9Trad