- Edit (TBD)
Crystal Biceps
Description
On the Crystal Boulder. Ideally start the same as "the tale of two traverses", but go the opposite direction (up and right). The next obvious jug is roughly 6 feet off the ground. Skipping to this hold does not affect the grade (the space in between is often wet & grimy). There are two obvious roof jugs to establish yourself above head height before reaching left for the huge left side pull. Traverse to the left and work your body onto the cave's arete. Getting fully onto the arete is the crux. Once you can stand on the arete to a no-hands-rest the problem is essentially over. The end point is almost the same as crystal crimps, but you'll most likely end slightly more to the right. Convention would be to top out straight above you, but that is often wet and extremely chossy. You can also traverse further left toward the V1 top outs. Either way the top out is just V-intro and I promise you've earned a V3 send regardless of how you chose to get down. Just make good calls for the conditions and your pad situation. It's one of the best routes streamside (according to my circles at least). VERY BURLY for a V3 and aptly named. It flows smoothly with good foot work, but it's a pretty particular style so feel free to debate the grade. Someone with great crimps, but less shoulder power might find it more comparable to the difficulty of crystal crimps (adjacent v4). Pad note: I've seen some pretty dramatically different beta for this route produce a lot of variation in the fall zone. You don't need a sea of pads but I recommend being extra cognizant of how foot positions affect the falls. video of a few climbers trying the problem: youtu.be/ZLIHzdP1hhQ
Location
Crystal boulder on the streamside (but opposite of the water from the main lot). Start in the back of cave toward the climbers right.
Routes in Streamside
- 10Crystal BicepsV3Bouldering