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Peak Mountain 3

Little Dickens

FA John Ficker, Jason Sands, John Mitchell, 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A demanding climb from bottom to top.  A must-do for the McDowells that will definitely scare the Dickens out of you at some point on this route.  Route begins at base of formation on easy and fun crack until thin moves takes you towards the piton.  The next couple of moves are thin and technical until the seam opens up and sinker finger jams and bigger are encountered.  Continue in crack until having to go vertical towards upper and wider crack (maybe a #6 in wide crack).  Some funky moves past some questionable rock and a slippery, bird pooped perch yields more secure jamming and finally the top.

Do not underestimate the upper portion and save some larger pieces for the final traverse to the summit.

Location

A few minutes up and left of Hog Heaven main wall.  You will be able to see the piton and the obvious thin crack that zigs and zags to the top.  

Protection

Nuts, cams to #3, a #4 can be useful. One piton, no anchors on summit, walk off.