Criller

Criller, AKA Lock it for Wayne. Wayne Crill was seriously injured making a FFA attempt with Greg Miller on August 9, 2014 when his rope unclipped from not one but two pieces of protection as reported in

Accidents in North American Mountaineering

(conclusion: locking carabiners would have averted the accident). With Wayne and Gregs' permission, the route has been bolted. Please, keep Wayne in your prayers.

Begin just below a crack in a lie back feature up a slab to a good flat ledge. Place some finger-sized cams until you can work up a bit to clip the first bolt - best to use a quick draw with locking carabiners. Moving left past the first bolt is .11a/b. A green or purple Camalot helps between bolts four and five. The crux of the climb is traversing between bolts six and nine as there are multiple .11+ cruxes, but decent rests are sprinkled throughout. During the traverse, don't climb high into the tempting crack, but stay slightly below the bolts.

It is just left of

Young, Blond, and Easy

.

Bring a 60m rope. Clip 10 lead bolts and a two bolt anchor. Bring one each of Metolius #1-#3 for the start and one green or red Camalot between bolt four and five. A shoulder runner on bolt four helps reduce drag later.