White Peregrines

A fine backcountry route on excellent rock. A little flakey from lack of traffic but I believe this would be a Sierra Classic if it was more widely known. The long approach certainly has kept the crowds at bay. The topo does a good job of breaking things down so a pitch-by-pitch description seems unnecessary. I'll provide a few helpful pointers instead:

• the 10a crux on P1 is near the bottom; the "move around arete" higher seems trivial in comparison

• P4 feels like 5.7 or maybe 5.8, super soft for the supposed 5.9 grade

• link P4 into the P5 crux 5.10a traverse, belaying on the large ledge above the "5.9 finger and hand crack." This avoids the awkward alcove gear belay and the downclimbing and backcleaning shenanigans shown on the topo.

• there is good medium-sized gear at the start of the "5.10a 5-inch layback" on P5; a chockstone can also be slung partway up.

• ballnuts, #5 camalot, and the big-bros listed on the topo are not required.

• "Fixed Nuts Rap Anchor" at the top has been replaced by a single bolted ring anchor as of 09/2019. A slung chockstone or horn can also be used.

Double cams tiny to 3", single 4". I don't think we used a single stopper on the whole route  but YMMV. Most of the cracks are shallow and slightly flaring - I found small offset cams to be useful. Bring some throw-away cord for the three topmost rap anchors. A single 60M rope is adequate for rappelling the route from fixed anchors.