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Peak Mountain 3

Jim's Dilemma

FA Bob Archbold, Jim Black, Don O'Kelley & Paul Muehl [1979]
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Although there are a couple of good jams to be had, I wouldn't really call this a crack climb. The wide bottom section can be easily overcome with basic chimney techniques. The crux comes near the top where the angle steepens and the crack is so small and flaring that it becomes fairly useless. There are decent face holds to the left.

Location

Obvious crack system on the downhill side of the Seashell.

Protection

A #6 cam is necessary to protect the bottom portion, though the climbing is easy enough that some climbers will be content without. A few finger to hand sized cams are useful for the top portion. It is possible to reach over to the left and clip the top bolt on the neighboring sport climb before pulling the crux at the top.

There is a good bolted anchor atop the Seashell. There is also an old bolted anchor directly atop this climb, but it is not in the greatest condition. We toproped the climb from the topmost anchor using the old anchor for a directional.