- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is best found by walking to the left end of the buttress and then back-tracking to the right 2 lines. The climb can be identified by the features on and around it. On the ground, a swell of rock to the left goes up a little slot to access the ledge before the climb's first bolt. The climb ascends past a bolt below a bulge, over the bulge for a clip that will be either tricky or high-ball (crux, height dependent 10c). Note closing comments on this. Past the second clip the climbing eases slightly to bigger holds and shorter moves (5.9?) on a left-leaning line to reach chain anchors.
Both the belayer and climber should consider this second clip carefully, as the clip is tricky and insecure from down low and a little highball from past the crux. With the ledge below, blowing the clip could be an ankle-breaker.As well, the previous bolt is long enough that one is tempted to clip it with a longer sling to avoid drag later, but this will lengthen a fall. I caught my partner on 3 lead falls from the crux, each ending perhaps a foot above the ledge. If I'd not paid close attention or if she'd outweighed me, she might have hit it hard.
Protection
A rack of draws, including one longer sling plus something up top for the chain anchor.
Routes in Chuckawalla Wall
- 9The Garden Of Eden5.10dSport