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Peak Mountain 3

Milligram

FA Connor Herson, Aug 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A spectacular roof crack with some interesting movement (that's an understatement).

Climb the start of Oz, but instead of doing the last pitch, start up the Gram Traverse, but halfway through the first pitch take this crack out the roof and follow it past the roof and a vert section to a bolted anchor and expansive ledge. From the bolted anchor it's 4th class to the top of Drug Dome.

Location

This is the obvious roof crack near the top of drug dome. Starts from the belay at the top of the corner on OZ, does about half of the first pitch of Gram, then climbs out the roof crack. I believe this is the "1 inch crack in roof" noted by the Supertopo Tuolumne guidebook, though it's certainly wider than 1". From the bolted anchor at the end of this pitch it's easy 4th class to the top of Drug Dome.

Protection

Gear for first half of Gram pitch 1

4x BD 0.5 and 4x BD 0.75

a few small offset cams

I placed an RP above the roof, but I forget the size

LOTS of runners. Rope drag is a serious issue on this one.

bolted anchors above and below this pitch.