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Peak Mountain 3

Payment in Pump

FA Darryl Roth
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Description

The rock is standard Shelf Road fare, pretty solid and topping out on the sharp black water drop features.

The climbing is maybe 5.11 up to the second horizontal break, where a good rest can be had. Then pull off a couple difficult moves followed by some thin climbing that's not as hard to the anchors. It is however possible to fall off after the crux if you're not thinking with your feet.

For folks with a large wingspan (maybe 6'4"), there is a tricky to get pinch out right that was vital for me. For shorter folks, you've got some bad, shallow pockets you'll have to pinch? just left of the bolt line.

This is a good place to be when Cactus is crowded with people and dogs. There's also a few routes on the front of the buttress to warm up on.

Protection

A long quickdraw is nice at the crux if you are working the route. This will make the clip a bit easier.