- Edit (TBD)
Description
For the 5.7 version, start on
Kung Fu
and clip its first bolt. Then move left into the vertical crack and corner system. At the small roof, move left to the
Screaming For Change
anchors.
For the direction "5.10" finish, which now (4/2018) has a bolted anchor, step left to avoid the loose blocks and pull around the left side of the roof to a stance. Shimmy atop the roof and then work your way up into the overhang. Pull through this with some fierce stemming, hand jamming, and crimp pulling. Apparently there is a "reach around happy finish" but this beta remains elusive. The "5.10" grade may be a bit of a sandbag... unusual at this crag.
Location
Just right of Screaming For Change
Protection
Gear to 2" including small cams
Optional 3.5" cam if going through the larger roof cracks