- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route climbs up thin cracks in a corner for 40' to where the corner opens to a face. Climb a crack in the face to two bolts. From the second bolt hand traverse right 10' on manky rock to a mantel onto a small ledge.(5.7+) Climb the splitter hand crack that slowly widens to the top of the tower. Build an anchor with creativity.
To descend find the anchor at the top of Fort Knox and scramble down to it. (When Matt and I did this I wedged myself in a crack and he rappelled to the anchor off of me)
Update
:
Apparently this route has been freed at 5.12 and called "Dragon's Breath". Also, there are now bolts on top so the shenanigans are no longer needed to get to the rap anchor.
Protection
Standard Desert Rack, Small to mid sized cams with extra 2 and 3 camalots for the final splitter crack. One 4 old camalot for the final moves to the summit. 2 Ropes to rappel Fort Knox.
Routes in Gold Bar Tower
- 1Dragon's Breath AKA South Face5.7+Trad · Aid