Night of the Unicorn

The Knome Dome, site of this route, lies a short way below and to the east of the Colossus. As for that rock, hike the Fern lake trail 1 and 1/2 miles to Bridge, then head up the hill. The Knome Dome is a prominent, 350 foot high triangular cliff.

P1. Identify an A-shaped roof halfway up the cliff, and start below that, near a large tree. Traverse up and right across the face on a ramp to a belay (5.5).

P2. Climb straight up, linking cracks and corners, and belay below a bulge, down and right of the A-shaped roof (5.7, 100 feet).

P3. Climb over the bulge (5.10a) or climb the corner to the roof and turn that at 5.8. Either way, continue in a nice hand crack. Belay or stretch the rope to the top; descend to the west.

Note: the cliff immediately west (the Moot Point Apron sports a beautiful steep slab with a shallow dihedral, said to be 5.10 (2 old bolts). Unfortunately, my partner took a rather large fall after 50 feet of fantastic climbing, so we didn't finish the route. An offwidth piece for a flake would be advisable.

A standard rack.