Tulainyo Tower

This is a fun route with alpine granite that ranges from amazing to a little grungy and flakey. There are plenty of sections of wide climbing and rewards those who make the hike into this area with a grand adventure.

The tower

The climb follows the prominent crack on the right side of the face, and the first pitch starts to the right of the lowest arch on the face.

Pitch 1: (5.6) crack climbing to a ledge

Pitch 2: (5.9) Wandering face and crack Climbing

Pitch 3: (5.10) Thin Seam into a 5.8 crack to a nice ledge

Pitch 4: (5.10) Easier crack climbing leads to a left traverse back into the main wide crack

Pitch 5: (5.10) Long Pitch up a crack that has 2 distant roofs to pull through (Save #2-4 for belay plus you need big pro for next pitch)

Pitch 6: (Burl fest) (5.10+ OW and Squeeze) Leave the belay and work towards the crux that lies about a bolt that is just above a small roof in an off width section of the crack. I found this pitch containing wet moss in the back of the crack which kept the excitement high

Pitch 7: (5.8) continue up the crack and move right up a ramp at the top of the pitch to avoid some loose rock and then back left into an alcove.

Pitch 8: (5.8) Another pitch with broken rock in the corner but a clean crack on the left wall when the corner ends continue up to the right on a ledge and belay (avoid your rope running across loose rocks)

Pitch 9 (easy 5th) continue up to the summit wondering up and slightly left.

A great topo created by Dave Nettle that was shared with us and helped us on our route.

Further Information:

Fiddler Pg 96

Secor Page 82

Summit Post:

summitpost.org/tulainyo-tow…

The route is located just to the left of Mt. Carl Heller and is in a wild alpine cirque.

sunrise on Tulainyo

Descent.

From the top of the roped climbing head due west in the direction of wallace lake. cross over several rock ribs on the west side of Mt. Carl Heller as you travel north over Vacation Pass. Follow sandy slopes and ledges back to your camp.

Alternatively you can approach from Russell - Carillon Col and camp at Wallace Lake for this route

50 M rope

1 bolt

Double rack to #3 Camalot and a #4 & #5 were helpful. Smaller stoppers and cams could be helpful for the seam on pitch 3. Many long slings