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Peak Mountain 3

G23

FA G23
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Excellent sport climb. Pitches of 5.10a, 5.12b, 5.11b, 5.11c, 5.9 and (5.6 trad)

Pitch 1: Crucify the Dread 5.11b*** or Gray Wall 5.10a **

Pitch 2: crux, from end of ledge chains, warm up with cryptic 5.10b, to crucify ledge, then step left into crack with lb’s and mono, to rattly hand jam in undercling, crux to rest/no hands, pop up and left to stamina cruxes, chain draw, crux, to easier 5.10 rock to belay. 5.12 b/c ***

Pitch 3: 5.11b*** classic well protected corner with distinct crux at top.

Pitch 4: 5.11c *** steep face with slopers at crux.

Pitch 5: 5.9 ** right to short wall on crest.

Pitch 6: 3rd class ridge to short wall w 5.4 w fixed pin

Can be combined with:

Do it For Doug, via Gee Dubble Connection: II 5.11c *** sport

Big Man on Campus, via Gee Dubble Connection: II 5.12a **sport

Upper pitches of Big Wally, via Gee Dubble Connection: 5.11b *** 1 set trad gear

The 1st pitch of Cruxify the Dread makes an excellent alternative start; 5.11a/b** sport

A pitch 3 variation is sweet: Big Man on Campus: 5.12a hanging arete' left of belay. sport.

Location

Center of Big Wally

Protection

Bolts with bolted anchors