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Whether or not you end up Completely Screwed may depend on whether you stay left or right of the bolt line, and it's super fun to find out how this one unfolds. The first four bolts get you to a ledge. Between here and the anchor, two distinct cruxy sections will remind you to get creative with body positioning. Gaston, stem, and leverage your way on up. Final stretch to the chains is sublime. With excellent protection, seems like this would be a good candidate for a leader just breaking into the grade.
Protection
Permadraws
Routes in Porcelain Wall
- 22Completely Screwed5.11aSport