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Peak Mountain 3

Secret Tryst

FA KJames Garrett and Franziska Garrett
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wear Helmets!

P1 5.10b 20m, start up the slightly less than vertical face that is very well bolted. One 5.10 move followed by very easy slab climbing up to the anchor.

P2 5.10c 20m, from the anchors follow the red bolts up the technical face. This pitch is just like the others in that it is remarkably well bolted. Small but good hands lead to a large ledge with lots of loose rock. Be careful on this ledge. There are also some prickly bushes on the ledge, not that you care, maybe you do.

P3 5.11b 30m, from the ledge you have options. There are three routes that span out from this point so if you want to know about them look them up in a guidebook. If you want to do the third pitch that I think is the correct one then head straight up from the anchors of p2. You will go over an easy roof and keep the corner to your left. Establish yourself on the blank face and enjoy the techy smears to the next ledge.

P4 5.11a 25m, Pull the roof above the anchors and establish yourself in the corner and finagle your way through it. Spoiler alert, it mellows out bought 3/4 of the way through. Watch the belay ledge, again, for loose rocks.

P5 5.9 20m, Pretty short pitch that could be combined with P6, but if you don't then you don't. Fairly fun face climbing on good holds

P6 5.10d 20m, Are you masochistic? Then you'll love this pitch, techy into a crack that is very sharp. I don't necessarily agree with 5.10d but that's what the bible has it at. Regardless, get through the crack and enjoy the view.

Descent: Rap the route, 60m works just fine.

Location

To my knowledge this is the last route on climbers left before the 5.12 climb There is a medium sized tree at the base that splits two climbs, this is the climb on the left.

Protection

Lots of bolts, all belays are bolted, several pitches look like they could go on gear.