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MapDescription
Well protected at the crux, but the 2nd bolt is runout from the 1st, which could put the leader in ground fall territory, so the belayer needs to be alert. Climb up to the first bolt and then toe jam up a flaring seam a ways to the second bolt. From there, head up on smears to the third bolt. With the third bolt at your waist, you'll encounter the crux - a wide, unlikely step across to the right onto a slopey smear with some little crystals to crimp on as you make the move. Clip the 4th bolt from there and make some more delicate smears up to easier climbing, then the top.
There is a bolted "convenience" anchor with small screw-links to facilitate a rappel. No need for cams or nuts for the anchor.
Location
Just left of
Gargoyle
.
Protection
4 bolts (3/8")
Routes in Zippy Rock
- 4Canalizo5.10cTrad