- Edit (TBD)
Description
The biggest plus to this route are that it gets to the top of Kyle's Tower and it's in the sun in winter.
Start on the offwidth corner at the western edge of the tower where it meets the main wall. Climb up about 15 feet, then traverse right to another crack that is slightly lower in angle. Climb past a large flake in the crack that will eventually come out and kill someone. Move up over the ledge, then into the chimney that is the mirror of the Beyer Route on the south face. Proceed up this, groveling and pushing, till you reach the summit. There is a good anchor here.
Most of this route is too wide to get pro, but too thin to get in.... and there is loose rock... Yeah, why did I do it!
The start doesn't look it, but it's 5.10. Just after the ledge it's 5.10 as well, but at least there you can get in one piece of hand-sized gear.
BTW, for all I know this was the FA route of the tower done by some offwidth master from the '60s, but I saw no sign of it. Let me know if so.
Location
This is the corner on the west face of the tower. It leads to the chimney that is the mirror of the Beyer/Copeland/Spitzer route on the south side.
Protection
Not much. You are either chimneying or offwidthing, so it's really wide. I did get a hand-sized piece in the upper chimney, and a .75 Friend fits in behind the "1950 DA" flake (Google that if you don't know about 1950 DA). Other than that, you could bring a few of those really, really, big chimney-size Big Bros, but that's about it.
Routes in Kyle's Tower
- 11950 DA5.10Trad