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Description
Boy Sage is a fun and slightly more difficult alternative to Arch Nemesis, though they both share the same starting dihedral and crux.
Beginning in a fairly blank dihedral, Boy Sage is hard from the get-go. The technical crux is pretty fun...or maddening, depending on how much you like to stem. Love Wartley’s Revenge? Great! Here’s your climb. After about twenty feet of tricky climbing you’ll get to a juggy undercling. Traverse right for a few feet until it’s possible to reach some nice sidepulls. Crank on these face holds for a little while until it’s possible to reach a crack. Then boogie on up to the anchor next to the fir tree.
Be very cautious about yarding on the four foot block at the base of the fir tree. It is completely detached and seems to be ready to go.
Location
Left of Emotional Rescue
Protection
Gear to 2”. Bolted anchor next to the fir tree.
For top-roping, there’s a piton high in the dihedral that is convenient to use as a directional.