North Gully

An enjoyable scramble if you are unprepared to climb one of the more technical routes on this mountain. It is also the closest descent route to the North Face. There is some loose rock in this gully, and there may in season also be snow, ice, and water; much more secure and pleasant climbing can often be found on the slabs immediately to climber's left. Exit the top of the gully, gain the ridge, and continue to the summit. This route is for the most part an easy solo and down-solo; the riskiest down-climbing can be avoided by rappelling the last 100 feet. The 5.2 rating is from Steve Bechtel's guidebook; Joe Kelsey's book rates it 5.1.

The obvious left-leaning fissure on the north side of Haystack's north tower. This route is most easily accessed from the ridge between Black Joe Lake and Clear Lake, as is the adjacent North Face route. Hike up steepening slabs for about 30 minutes to reach the bottom of the gully.

There may be rappel anchors for the bottom 100 feet.