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Peak Mountain 3

Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left)

FA Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens 1970
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 : Climb to the base of the flared chimney via not well defined corner/spliter. In upper part of this pitch there some hard, tricky 5.9 moves in vegitated crack, but you can protect them well. 70 ft. mostly small medium gear. Belay at the small convinient ledge on the left.

P2 : Start as the fist crack, and then widen to easy chimney (~5.7) for about 25 feet. The crux is short section where chimney narrows to short OW. Transition [turning the lip of small roof] from this OW to fist crack is the crux. You can protect the crux by #6 or #5 friends in ow section and #4 friends is best in the fist crack. After the roof/overhang negotiated - you still have about 50 feet of interesting varied climbing. 5.10b/ ~120 feet . Belay at the tree

P3 : From the tree you can climb 5.9 chimney ( left root) where #6 friend is too small for protection - you need bigger gear like 8-10".

Other option -you can climb third pitch of Center Route, by traversing 15 feet right from the tree to splitter crack 5.10a . This crack started as thin hands and finished 8" OW. Climb any of those variations to the top of Steppin' Out and rappel with one 70m rope ( 4 rappels)

Location

The second pitch flare is well seen from below just after you pass Stone Grove.

Protection

Double rack from green alien to #4 friend, and singe #4, #5 #6 CamelotC4,