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Peak Mountain 3

The Tombstone

FA Tony Yaniro, Randy Leavitt and Dan Michael, 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch (5.9) of this three pitch climb on the north face of the Tombstone is only about 20' long. Begin in a diagonal finger crack adjacent to a narrow and discontinuous ramp. Climb to a two bolt belay. The second pitch (5.11+ s) on the slightly overhanging portion of the wall is sustained and difficult from the onset. A fixed copperhead protects moves to a bolt (1/4") and then three more fixed copperheads in a seam lead to a nice finger crack about 10' from the bolt. The fourth copperhead is very loose; don't bother clipping it. The climbing eases to a ledge at the base of a cave-like depression where the second pitch ends. The third pitch (5.10) climbs out of the depression onto a grainy face / slab protected by two bolts (1/4") to the top of the Tombstone. From the top, downclimb to a bolted anchor (1/4" bolts) on the east end that is used for Heaven Can Wait and The S Cracker. One 60 m rope is sufficient to reach the ground.

Protection

Mostly small to medium sized cams and quickdraws provide protection for this climb as well as anchors. A few long runners are also helpful for anchors.