Straight to the Throat

Straight to the Throat is the wild and steep crack line to the left of Squirt and essentially shares the start with that route. Though this route features excellent sections of face climbing, the harder climbing is going to test your crack skills. This line is a solid and unique classic, which will most likely leave you gasping for air. You could do this route on gear with a stiff PG-13 rating though the crux is well protected.Climb awesome holds past three bolts to access the crack which starts off with a wide pod. If you have a good wing span, there are a few choice hand holds, and faint feet which allow for a very long move to the distant rail. If you are of a shorter persuasion you will most likely have to do an offwidth move or two to pass this pod section. A deceptive, bulging, and splitter section of 5.12- off fingers (#.4, .5) awaits you and is most certainly the crux of the route. The gear here is very good. After the jam test there is a good shake, which is nice because there are another set of cruxy moves getting to, and moving over the small roof at the 2/3 mark 5.11-. PLEASE be careful under the roof because while we pull on the largest block- there are a number of lesser chock stones behind it of unknown integrity. After the roof, a few big hero moves and big holds take you to the anchors.Named for the laceration I got from a scrub oak on the send day approach.

Left hand overhanging crack line.

I placed two #.4s and a #.5 during the crux section, and a #.75 at the higher roof, though #.5 or #1 would also work. Five bolts. Clipping first bolt of Squirt is optional.