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Peak Mountain 3

Hands Off

FA Oliver and Slater, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start right of

Teetotaler

. Follow the path; you can set the belay on a couple of different flat spots. You can't miss this dihedral. Climb easy terrain (with good pro if you want it) up to the base of the dihedral, perhaps 40 feet. Now head straight up. The pro is good, and you can stem or layback your way up it. I thought the pitch was harder than

Grins

(to the left, a 5.8), perhaps because the protection is not as easy as

Grins

. Regardless, this is a fun pitch, well worth doing.

Protection

Standard rack with hexes up to #10. At the top of the dihedral, you can set an anchor (tricam/cams/stoppers). You can also traverse left to anchors, but you'll get rope drag. Finally, you can go all the way to the top. I set an anchor, brought up the 2nd, then traversed to the bolts and rapped on a 60m rope.