Friends in High Places

There are three drawbacks to this climb: some chossy rock in the crux, a lot of birdshit in a couple spots, and a little dirt and lichen throughout. If it weren't for all that, this would be a 4 star classic and one of the best pitches in Tuolumne. The variety of climbing, wild exposure up high, and sustained burliness make this a great and full-value climb worth hopping on if you're solid at the grade. And more traffic would clean it up a little and make it even better.

Climb the left-slanting jam crack which has everything from thin hands to offwidth. At a ledge in an alcove you can either belay or link it all together into one 11a+ megapitch. Stem and lieback out the steep alcove and into some chossy rock. Climb up the steep crack with face holds and into the final corner. The corner looks crazy steep from the ground but you're actually on your feet for this part. Knob climb and lieback to a bolted anchor. A little more easy 5th class leads above the anchor to the summit.

The crux is getting up to the bottom of the finishing dihedral. There's decent pro but it's a little stressful climbing because the rock is decomposed.

In the center of the cliff. Starts up the obvious jamcrack to the right of a chimney, finishes out the left overhanging dihedral.

To link in one pitch you want a double rack to 5" plus tripples from .3" to 1.5", nuts, and a crapload of shoulder length runners.