Palm and Pray

This route isn't your standard Darkside affair. Most of the route is steep, sustained, and it won't always be your calves that are getting pumped! I think it's a classic on the wall, something that's truly worth repeating. Hope you enjoy it!P1. Start in a #4-5 crack at the toe of the buttress. Follow the crack system up the slab through a few bulges. Beneath the chossy seam/inset (40-45m), traverse hard left around the corner. Build an anchor or use the tree (M5 50m).

P2. This is a journey! Unlock the technical face, trending right around the buttress into the dihedral system splitting the wall. At the top of the first dihedral, step left, and climb through the steep face/crack (this takes you back right into the 2nd dihedral). At the top of the system, go left and up a scoop to the large ledge, use a tree anchor, 60+m (M6 10a).

P3. Move the belay climber’s right 20m around the corner of the buttress, use a tree anchor and same as P3 anchor on “

Mama Tried

”.

P4: Look at that steep dihedral! Stem, jam, and drytool the sustained corner. At the top, follow the ramp 10ish meters and build an anchor beneath the seam going through the overhang, 35m (M6 10a).

P5. This is the namesake pitch. Climb the sweet, steep seam, getting whatever gear you can before topping out on the slab. You won’t see any for a while. That mossy dihedral up and right? That’s what you’re aiming for. Tiptoe through the slab into the corner. Eventually you’ll get gear. Sweet moss sticks and stemming lead you to the top. Use a tree anchor, 50m M5 (M4 X).

P6. Go up the scoop, and then trend left for 35m up ledges. You’ll be 30-40m straight above the 4th pitch anchors on

Mama Tried

. Use a tree anchor, 40m (M3).

Descent: rap

Mama Tried

, all the anchors are fixed. The fixed, 2 nut/small tree anchor might change with quality during the yearly freeze/thaw. Feel free to add bolts to this rappel anchor. All others are off large trees.

Rack: singles 000-1 C3, doubles 2 C3-#5, nuts, pins, and 2 60m ropes (or longer for no simuling).

This route pushes a line up the middle of the mitten-shaped buttress in between the

House/Kennedy Chimney

and the Racing Stripes. Begin your descent just past the Poser's Lounge, and pull off. Cross the river, and angle up and left through the trees to the base of the buttress. The approach time is 30 minutes - 1 hour depending on snow conditions.

Singles 000-1 C3, doubles 2C3 - #4, 1 #5, nuts, pins, 2 60m ropes (or longer for no simuling). You could probably bring less if you split up the 2nd pitch.