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Peak Mountain 3

Caper's Caper (Massive Traverse)

FA Old School
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A massive traverse, right to left, starting on Left Ski Track and ending on Sahara Terror. Mostly 5.7 to 5.9 but harder pitches can be mixed in.

There's significant loose rock on the second half and be sure to protect your follower

P1: First Pitch of Left Ski Track to belay bolts.

P2: Sling Swing Traverse to Green Arch bolted anchor.

P3: Around the corner and down a touch to belay in Open Book alcove.

P4: Do Bookmark pitch, hardest difficulty moves 10b, to belay on Jensen's Jaunt.

P6: Do step around on JJ then step down and past medium bush/tree, then slight downward to belay on Fingertrip.

P7: Straight across the wall under lunch ledge, belay in Angel's Fright.

P8: Do Ubangi Lips pitch of Jonah and keep going left to Pine Tree Ledge on The Trough.

P9: Take Piton Pooper (5.7) or Spiders From Mars (10c) to Upper Royals Arch.

P10: Start off on Upper Royals but when in leaves the crack go straight left across the face all the way to belay just below Price of Fear.

P11: Climb up a bit on to Price of Fear then down climb the starting ramp to nice belay on Super Pooper.

P12: Down climb 10 feet and traverse left over second pitch of The Step to belay on White Maiden.

P13: Go up WM and when it cuts right go straight left to Whodunnit to belay.

P14: Traverse left on blocks to Sahara Terror.

P15-16: Finish on Sahara Terror.

Originally we down climbed The Uneventful from Sahara to the big ledge then finished on North Buttress but North Buttress gully is pretty sketchy.

Location

Left Ski Track

Protection

Full rack to 3in