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Description
70 METER ROPE REQUIRED TO LOWER OFF!!! Check your stopper knot before lowering the leader.
What do you get when you cross an elephant with a rhino?
This route! Which is a mix of a little of everything. Stemming, lie-backs, fun jug hauls, no-hands traverse, slab, and small cracks.
Start in the right crack and head straight up. End up in the tiny rest cave, place an optional #5, and head out onto the face. Lie back to the right of the bush, place a high nut with a long runner, and traverse left. Then head up the left crack that fades in and out of existence, forcing you into slab climbing the right face for a few moves. Then pull the final victory roof and ONLY LOWER OFF IF YOU HAVE A 70 METER ROPE!!!! Otherwise, you can lower partially down and grab the intermediate anchor on "Hole in the Wall" to your right to do a two-part rappel or lower.
There are bolts on the line to the left that can be used to mostly turn this into a sport climb, but you'd definitely want some trad gear for the first half.
The approach: Get to the bottom of Hole in the Wall. Walk into the actual hole in the wall. Emerge out the other side, and you're at the base of the climb.
Protection
#0.3: 1x
#0.4 - #2: 2x
#5: 1x (optional)
Set of nuts (Really only need a #10 DMM Offset for one spot)
Alpine draws and quickdraws: Roughly 14 total
Anchor-building gear for 2 bolt anchor
All trad protection at the bottom (although you can reach over and use the bolts on Elephator in some places). Look for the solid placements deep in parallel cracks, no need to use any flaring or fragile rock. 3 lead bolts and 2 anchor bolts at the top, and you can mix in trad there as well to get more protection if you'd like. Save a #0.3 and #0.5 (blue and purple) for the top section interspersed with the bolts. Bolts are 3.5" x 3/8" stainless steel 5 piece wedge anchors with stainless steel Fixe hangers.