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MapDescription
Super fun route! The first half is 5.9 climbing through a satisfying dihedral onto a ledge. The second half is face climbing over (or around) an overhang onto a sparse face with small holds.
A bit contrived near the top, as there is an alternate, 5.9 version that heads right and skirts the crux. Heading entirely left past the last two bolts seems a bit harder than 10d, however.
Location
About 100 feet left of "Wind Dummy"/"Tidewater." Look for a vertical red face split by three cracks that intersect to make an asterisk just above a scooped out roof.
Protection
Quickdraws and gear to 1.25". Bolt anchor with chains.
Routes in OH8
- 21Desert Dreaming5.10cTrad