East Face

This route follows the most obvious line up the east face - a giant left facing dihedral. This route would clean up with some traffic and be worthy of another star but there are enough loose bits to keep it exciting. There are a few variations that can be taken so follow your own preference and intuition.

P1) 4th class approach from the glacier to a loose ledge at the base of the main corner. Gets a little real near the top - some may like a rope. 100'

P2) 5.8 up the steep corner to a belay atop a large wedged flake with a fixed pin (a Beckey original?). 140'

P3) 5.8+ Lieback up wide corner utilizing small face holds, branch out into crack on right wall to large ledge. 90'

P4) 5.10 PG. Splitter on steep right wall to arete. There is a bail anchor here where it starts to get exciting - step back left around the arete to gain a loose thin crack that diagonals back into the main corner. Continue up to a nice ledge.  180'

P5) 5.9. Up the wide squeeze corner, then branch out into steep crack on right wall. Belay when you cross over onto the north face. 150'

P6) 5.6 Cracks up featured north face. Nice topout directly on the prow of the formation. 140'

An obvious line. Multiple options for the descent - downclimb the NE Couloir (axe/crampons required), downclimb the cl-3 NE Ridge to the Powell-Thompson Col, or descend the cl-2 south slopes wrapping down and around to the east then back up to the P-T Col.

Standard double rack to 3”, a 4", an optional 5-6" piece for those adverse to wide runouts.