Jahloada’s Witness

ACC article about the FA:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214582/Mt-Tyndall-Jahloadas-Witness-and-Chorblamos

This route climbs a sub formation of mt. Tyndall, known as the first pillar, which is southwest of the summit of mt Tyndall across the east gully.

pitch 1: 5.8 R, follow left trending white dike to small alcove with #2 crack in back.  30m

pitch 2: 5.8 R trend right up poorly protected slabs. belay when able on ledges at the start of the massive right facing dihedral . 50m

*** it might be better to climb the minor dihedral outside and left of the major dihedral . the major dihedral had lots of moss and some loose blocks.

pitch 3: 5.10 climb up blocky terrain, cracks, and slab within the major right facing dihedral system. 60m

pitch 4: 5.10 continue up the dihedral system to a blocky overhanging corner. climb out of the dihedral, and up easy ledges. belay on a spacious ledge. 45m

pitch 5: 5.6 climb up easy ledge and slabs, saying on the edge of the ridge when able. belay in the dark grey rock. 60m

pitch 6: 5.9 climb up awesome knobs into overlapping left trending cracks. stay slightly right, and climb the steep .4 lieback to gain the ridge. belay on the plush and amazingly exposed platform on the ridge. 45m

pitch 7: 5.6 head up the narrow ridge, following cracks and flakes, belay when able, or when rope drag gets too bad. 60m

pitch 8: 5.6. the ridge flattens out and gets even more knife edge and exposed. belay at the base of the headwall. 60m

pitch 9: 5.10 climb up the pedestal at the base of the head wall, on top move right then back left into a right facing corner. after the corner work up series of short boulders and ledges, belay on any of the multiple ledges. 40m

pitch 10: 5.8 follow the path of least resistance up various boulders and ledge to the summit. 40m

Left side of the first pillar of mt. Tyndall.  Approach by dropping into the Williamson bowl, then walking along the north side of the first lake, and up the shallow gully at the west end of the lake to the base of the formation.

1 set of nuts, doubles #0.1 to #2, single #3 and single #4