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Peak Mountain 3

Falling Apart at the Seams

FA Stuart Ruckman, Fred Thalman 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

. . . and

the seams

aren't the only things that are

falling apart

.

This chossy adventure offers a nice variety of everything. If sporty mixed climbing is on your to-do list

Falling Apart at the Seams

is for you. While most of this route is solid, you will come across some questionable terrain, loose holds, and friable rock. Proceed with caution.

Climb about nine feet up an attached block to a big ledge. Clip your first bolt and power up for the steeper than it seems wall of big holds and edges. From the ledge run it out towards an icebox sized death block, climb around this and get a solid stance. Catch another rest then break right climbing past two bolts while aiming for the large slot - here lies the crux. Don't split your wig trying to suss out this one, get creative, hang on tight and move quick, a shallow ledge awaits tired arms. Finish here passing one more bolt on a short, steep head wall, top-out on the ledge above the crag. Rope drag can be a problem coming over the edge, its best to back up the anchor and bring up your second.

Rappel the route via webbing and slings.

Location

This route sits directly right of

cTr

and about 200 feet up the talas from

Diminishing Returns

. Look for the shallow slot, thin straight seam, and black bolts.

Protection

Bring a small light rack and one hand sized piece, slings, draws, and a pocket sized sewing kit.