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Johnny Too Bad
Description
Stand start on slopey but decent holds about head high. Continue up through smaller holds, then go right to a horn high on the arete. Follow the rail system way left on good holds below the blocks loosen by the bonsai juniper to a shared finish with the problems just left. Or you can go right out onto the slab face right of the arete, under a cracking block, then up. Both can be spicy! A sit start exists, using pockets down and left. It adds a few moves, and potentially a number grade. Those butterdishes are very friction/temperature dependent.
Location
On the far right end of the slabby south face of the boulder, just left of the SE arete. It follows a series of slopey butterdishes. See area beta photo for the South Face, problem #20.
Protection
Pads and spotters, it's tall and wanders
Routes in Unbeatable Boulder
- 12Johnny Too BadV3-4Bouldering