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Peak Mountain 3

Undercling Right

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Description

The zig-zag crack just right of the obvious wide crack, on the north little Owl. Undercling and jam from the ground at 5.9, or step in higher up off of a ramp at a 5.8 thin crack. A good little route. It finishes at chains on top where one can rappel or lower.

[Eds. Interestingly, there are 3 ways to do this route. S. Kimball's guide describes a 5.8 version which starts on

Knee Catcher

. R. Rossiter's guide describes this as Flake, 5.8+. He also describes starting with a thin seam (challenging) on the right. B. Gillett's guidebook describes starting up the awkward zig-zag crack as 5.9+.]

Protection

Bring a light standard rack to a #2 Camalot. It is also possible to scramble up the easy fifth class terrain on the back of the rock to set up a toprope from the chains on top.