Our Mine's I

Above 'Bulldog' ascend the break up face to a long block and on top of block two bolt belay.

This pitch was bolted. Up the Short wall by crimp holds (5-7) to the ceiling to the the diving board block mantled. Up the fractured left facing corner and climb grass clumped wall (5-9) and traverse right (5.8+) a little run out to the mantle onto the platform belay ledge.

Ryan did the nice crack and moved left and up with 2 pitons for protection. Lots of (5.7) and some (5.8) moves were made until the corner ramp to head is reached to a stunning inclined dihedral (5.9/A1) was climbed over onto slab to the belay ledge. Its way better to belay before doing the dihedral.

I went up the finger crack through ceiling (5.8) to enter and traverse to the right wall of a narrow ridge's edge with chock filled cracks. Move left pass pin and friction (5.8 crux) up to mantle onto ledges. Ledges end at belay (fixed stopper and pin) Rappel is doable.

Ryan From belay moved up right and back left to go directly up to crack corner below second diving board (5.8). After crack corner move pass the diving board on the inside of it. Move up to ceiling crack (5.8+ crux) and move left around ceiling and go up to ascend cracks in wall to the right at the top of the ridge.

Many rocks were removed on lead and seconding. There is much loose rock on the last pitch especially off route. We had no trouble retrieving our rappel ropes from 4th pitch belay bolts.

For 6 years I've wanted to climb the diving board. It used to be called 'My Mine's I'. I got toasted from drilling on the lead and it took four trips to do it all. The ceiling is very fractured and cams great weight. I opted for bolt protection below ceiling throughout this pitch.

Directly above Bulldog on the north side or right of 'Odessa Steps' second pitch.

17 bolts and several fixed pins. On 'Bulldog' I doubled up the bolts because there will be needed a belay station to the direct start that hasn't been done and rope soloing higher I wanted two before I went on. Now there are many options to belaying the first pitch. I nicknamed this climb my Cannon sport route. It is not like any Rumney sport route. It was a long project. I broke a drill bit on this very hard granite conglomerate. A light rack with cam gear including a couple of large ones and some long slings should do.