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Peak Mountain 3

Nug Dunk

FA Jacob and Austin Hancock
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A big hold or two, then nothing but tiny crimps for 6 or 7 moves. Pull a puzzling, balancy crux, make a thin clip, pull a few more crimp moves and encounter the nugs!! It’s short, but it’s a genuinely good route with fun moves. As for the grade, we have no idea. Most suggestions range from 11b to 11d but someone did say it might be 5.9 in Cochise. Have fun.Beta video if you want some help managing the micro crimps: youtu.be/o81qRBuHSJAThere is a 4 bolt extension that branches to the right after the 4th bolt of Nug Dunk. This section features a couple of the coolest moves at the crag and has an extremely difficult boulder problem (likely double digit V grade) on a pinchy, tufa-esque feature right before the chains. We’re calling this project “Bonzai Backdoor” for now. It is an open project. There are currently no chains on the anchor at the top, but you can clean your gear if you hike to the top of the cliff and rap off the access anchor (two bolts on a big block.)

Location

White spotted face on the left side of the wall. Look for a low first bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to chains


Routes in The North Shore