- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a fun long route with moderate difficulty and great position. The first two pitches have gear placements 20' apart but fairly easy climbing in between.
P-1 5.7 PG, 180'-200' depending on where you anchor. Gear anchor
Climb through some overlaps and up to a steep section with knobs. Above this is a slab with a bolt near the lt. edge. The pitch finishes on a large ledge with a pine tree. Anchor at the edge or back at the tree.
P-2 5.7 PG, 190' Gear anchor
Pull through the overlap directly above the tree and onto a slab. You will see another pine tree above to the right. Continue on the slab to a bolt and into a rt. facing corner staying left of the tree. This will take you to the belay ledge. Be sure to protect the end of the corner so the second can't swing into the gully.
P-3 5.8 175' Gear anchor with one bolt
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Rt. of the belay follow cracks up to the overlaps with 2 bolts. A bit further you will enter a lt. facing dihedral. At its end is a roof, move right at the roof (easier than it looks) up to another bolt and then the one bolt anchor and gear.
P-4 5.8 190' Gear anchor
Diagonal up and right to a large branch. Stand on this and make the crux move to easier ground. After 100', scramble up a scree gully to a large ledge.
Descent:
Just to the north of this ledge is a rap anchor. 95' rap to a large pine tree. Directly below this is another pine tree just 50' down. Use this if you have a 60 meter rope or 10' east of the tree is the anchor of East Crack (5.10). A 70 meter rope will just reach North Gully from the upper large tree.
Alternative Descent:
Head south around the corner and find your way through a maze of ledges to the lower ridge and back to the North Gully.
Location
Hike up the North Gully Descent trail to St. Pauly Slabs. Go left up the Hinterlands Gully about 150' passing a large pine tree. Leave your packs here and continue up another 100' around the base of the butress to a cairn at the start just 25' from the base.
Protection
single set cams .2-3", extra .75, 1", 2", wires, several runners